Saturday, January 24, 2009

Back to AZ reality with my head filled with CR rainforest

It has been amazing to see Shel dive into this Blog project of his. I just was given the editing task and cleaned up the info, spelling and grammar a bit. But the essence is his and I was grateful for his interest in capturing this special travel moment in time. Yep--I have lots of photos to share and will be working on sending a set of photos of the week via Flicker. This place was quite the little hidden gem. We were wooed by the travel adviser entries and ended up keeping it simple and staying there for a week. (the roads were compromised with the earthquake for our second stop but we never were sorry to not do more exploring.) We really had to tear ourselves away from these people. I was so not ready to come back. The hiking shoes and rain gear became quite comfy. I had a pair of rubber boots for the mud and was satisfied to sit in the late afternoon and watch the newly arrived egrets swoop in and out of the trees and across the water. After I returned from a photo shoot, my new friend Anthony (a foodie who went early to watch and help Anacelli make our dinner) said he thought I was having a "religious" experience.
Pablo and Ana are very conscious of their community and do everything they can to help their neighbors and make them a part of their business. It didn't take long before I decided to take marketing photos and to come up with some plan to also help the community with my art. There is no question that we left a little bit of our hearts in this amazing part of Costa Rica!

Back in AZ

Fairly easy trip home on USAIR. Plane was about an hour late because we had to take on additional fuel in Mazatlan Mexico.
All in all , this was just the trip we needed at this time. Costa Rica really got into our blood and we plan to return sometime next winter to visit Finca la Anita and our friends Ana, Pablo and Liz.

We Dont Need No Stinking Badges


Headed back on Thursday morn for San Jose and the flight back to Phoenix early Friday morning. It was very difficult for us to pull ourselves away from this place and our new friends.
After an uneventful trip for the first hour and a half (finally used to the bumpy roads and simple bridges--Paula wondered where the potholes were) we entered the Pan American Highway in Bagaces. We are cruising along on the road for about a half hour and I get flagged down by the policia! My guide book warned me about this but as I passed a truck, exceeding the speed limit by 15kph, there he was waiting for me. He showed me his radargun and the 95 kpm was right there. He takes out his ticket book after taking my passport and calling me by my name. He tells me the fine was to be 30,000 colones (about $60) and that that I had to go back to Liberia (2 hours in the wrong direction) pay the fine at the bank and then go to court the next morning! He also asked when I was returning to the USA and when I said the next morning he gave me a look like that was too bad. Finally, after several back and fourths, I asked him if I could pay him directly and he said yes. So out came two $20 bills, which he took with a smile, and let me go on my merry way. We both felt quite queasy after that experience! Such is life in Costa Rica. "Pura Vida" (translation: "it's all good") were the words we saw everywhere. In this case I guess it meant "cash talks with the policia".
I can only say watch your speed at all costs especially when the limit changes from 80kph to 60kph entering each little town. We did get stopped again, but only as a courtesy stop to check our passports. The whole ride back we were on the lookout for the police. We intend to fly into Liberia next time. No more 5 plus hour drives to our rainforest retreat from San Jose!!

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Dinner at Aracellis'


Talk about your local flavor. Last night Paula and I--along with Finca la Anita guests Anthony and Shauna from Portland-- shared dinner with Aracelli and her family. Who is Aracelli you ask? She is a local "homemaker" who opens her home to guests of Finca la Anita who are interested in meeting a local family and enjoying her food. Aracelli is a master on her kitchen wood stove-- this means wood lit on a simplebase). A simple meal of salad, stewed chicken, plaintains and rice and a custard like dessert were truly delicious in this native setting. But, the best part of the evening was meeting her family....husband Alfredo, sons Steven age 16, Jonathan, age 12, and daughter Allejandra- age 10. These people were so warm and welcoming, like most everyone we have met in this country. You are immediately embraced and kissed. Everyone greets us with smiles and warm hellos! Even though Liz was the only one in our group to speak fluent Spanish (mine is getting much better as the week progresses), and they spoke little English we had so much fun. We even played a Spanish/English version of Bingo after the meal with the cards holding different categories. When the word "snake" came up--Alfredo yelled "BUSH"!! Lots of laughs and high fives! There were many smiles at the mere mention of the name of our new President. Yes--we feel proud to be Americans away from home. We all laughed and laughed as we each tried to speak the others native language like a native! They insisted we pronounce the words exactly! Paula swears she is going to learn Spanish now.
Whatever these people lack in material things they make up in warmth and appreciation for the simple things they do have. We could all take a lesson from them.
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Obama at the Santa Maria Volcano Lodge


January 20th Inauguration Day

We spend our lives accumulating an account of memories; put this one, January 20th 2009, in the bank!
When we decided to go to CR and miss all the Inauguration events we were a little disappointed. I set the DVR to record the entire day so we could see all the happenings when we returned.
Today we opted against the usual activities and instead went to Santa Maria Volcano Lodge to watch the Inauguration on CNN. In the absence of a picture, let me say that the use of the word “lodge” here is a euphemism. The lodge consists of a small open air restaurant with a couple of cabins. Charming but very rustic.

On a small screen with colors that were heavy on the blue side we watched Barack Hussein Obama take the oath of office. The first African -American President. We were joined by our new friends Liz, Shauna and Anthony. Being in another country and watching democracy unfold at its finest, we were all so proud to be Americans and optimistic for our future. We were brought to tears. Something about leaving your country, even for a brief vacation, makes you appreciate what we have. Barack was inspiring as usual. He speaks to the “better angels” in all of us.

The Inauguration was followed by a lunch made by Rosalba, the owner and chef extraordinaire. Homemade cheese, spiced beef and chicken, patacones and other stuff that I can't name but tasted great was the little snack we asked for. We all toasted with beer or fresh pineapple juice with rum. We shared the meal, again, with our favorite Toucan, Mincho, and his friend Mini-Mincho

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Generations


Part of the charm Finca la Anita (FLA) is not just the beautiful surroundings but the people you meet. Fellow travelers/adventurers form a bond here, if only for a few days. In this environment you become fast friends irrespective of age. Steve and Kristen, Shauna and Anthony are around the ages of our children. It hardly seems to matter as we share the FLA experience and lots of stories together.

Last night we ate and drank til late and as they shared some of their life experiences and perspectives. The evening gave me insight into a generation that I can’t get from my children as their parent. The four of them are successful, nice, caring people who face a different set of problems and challenges than Paula and I did at their age. It became clear to me that they find themselves in a far more complicated world than we did. They probably have more opportunities and choices to make then we did, but lots more stress and doubt in making those choices. Kristen, a writer for msnbc.com, wants to interview Ana and Pablo for a story on their life and about viewing this historic moment here in the tropical rainforest of
Today we are off to a local bar/restaurant to watch the inauguration. Liz went to alot of time and trouble to make sure that we would have a place to watch it. Kristen, who is a writer for MSNBC.com, wants to do a story about viewing this historic moment here in the isolated tropical rainforest of Costa Rica. We will let you know when it comes out.

The Blue Morpho


The Blue Morpho
This is why we are here! About a year ago we watched a movie about a young boy with a brain tumor and a troubled scientist who find their way to CR in search of the Blue Morpho butterfly. The butterfly is said to have special healing powers and to make the story short, finding the butterfly fixes both of them. The movie is based on a true story. Paula and I were so enchanted by the filming in CR that she requested that this be her birthday trip. So here we are in the Santa Maria Rincon Park enjoying the hike but not necessarily in search of the Blue Morpho. (just hoping we will see one before we leave CR.) Driving about an hour over unpaved bumpy mountain roads, crossing about six streams without bridges in our 4WD we arrive. After only a few minutes of hiking, we cross a stream and out flies the Blue Morpho (identified quickly by Liz!) . Its brilliant blue color sparkles in the filtered sunlight.
The Blue Morpho is a sight to behold. The butterfly is about 8 inches across and a dull brown with its wings closed. But when it opens its wings it sparkles a brilliant blue in the sunlight-- almost electric. Later we paused by another stream for about a half hour and are visited by several Blue Morphos..a special moment on a very special trip. Paula called it Morpho Highway as one after another just seemed to come up the stream and flit around. I got a little crazy trying to photo one. Their movements are really fast and hard to anticipate. Paula--the photographer- just sat there as they swirled around her, willing in all that healing..and leaving the camera in the case! Our friend Anthony actually snapped one earlier and said he would send it to us. But a postcard will have to do for now.
Following our hike we stopped at a local outdoor restaurant -Santa Maria Volcanco Lodge- and had a meal that scored 11 on a scale of one to ten. Rosalba--the owner is quite the cook. Our Liz had communicated well and we were dazzled. We kept shooing their pet Toucan (Mincho) from the table. Quite a bold bird. This is the real CR for sure.

Go Toucans er CARDINALS!!


“Two things have happened in the last several months that I thought I would never see-- a black man became President and the Cardinals are in the Super Bowl. You believed, and now I think I do too.”
-Jonathan Silverberg- January 18th 2009.

Even in Costa Rica we got the word-- “Cardinals Win!! I “listened” to the game via text on ESPN.com surrounded by a tropical jungle and the sounds of all sorts of strange and beautiful birds..did I say BIRDS??!!! So the Cardinal took out the mighty Eagle. I believe this is an ancient Costa Rican myth, or maybe it was the Toucan conquering the Monkey? Anyway onto the Super Bowl! Can the Cards do it one more time and defy the critics and the odds? Quoting our almost VP....”You Betcha!!

Monday, January 19, 2009

To the Volcano


I have given up trying to upload photos, it takes too long at 54bps so the writing will have to do.

In a couple of hours we are off to the Rincon National Park and the Rincon Volcano hike. The volcano is dormant (for now at least) so we should be safe. Ride there should be quite exciting. We have a guide,--sort of, Elizabeth from Maryland who is working here as the person who answers with all the internet inquiries and handles bookings for the resort and then joins Pablo and Ana in the meet and greet 24/7 hosting. We learned later she is called Director of Fun! We are driving our 4WD through several streams to get there but as they say here.. "no problem".The others guests includes two much younger couples from Seattle and Portland who we have "bonded" with over the past two days. Really nice people. One couple is about to adopt a baby from Ethopia.

Last night we were all talking about Barack and W and how much we were all hoping for positive change. I asked Elizabeth if she knew of anyone who ever stayed here who was not a supporter of Barack and she said "four people", then corrected herself and said "maybe three".

This is that kind of a place!!

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Finca la Anita


This is not your typical “resort” but for those willing to take their time and enjoy a spetacular drive on a bumpy road for about 30-45 minutes, you will arrive at Finca la Anita Rainforest Ranch http://www.laanitarainforestranch.com/
The drive takes you over multiple bridges of various sizes and composition --just do it in the daytime! F la A is a very special place with very special people. It is like camp-- just in the rain forest.
The owners, our hosts, Ana and Pablo,could not be nicer people and truly part of this Costa Rican experience. Their marketing agent/travel hostess/ woman I drove crazy with all my emails / DIRECTOR OF FUN--Liz-- is a 24 year old American from the DC area. She fits perfectly here.

Ana and Pablo are “Ticos” (native born CRs) in their late thirties- early forties with two of the cutest little kids you would want to meet. They are both college-educated agrarians who speak perfect English. (Paula thinks Pablo looks like a young Antonio Bandaras--I say no more.) The farm was Ana's father's and is named for her. Besides operating the resort they run the farm. Their resort business is a year old--with 10 very comfortable cabins built in the Caribbean style. The farm harvests macadamia nuts but their cash crops are tropical flowers and greens, most of which are sold to Dutch flower wholesalers. They also plan to raise cacao for chocolate and go organic with the nuts. We learned everything on a very comprehensive tour given by Pablo. He also includes a little cooking class where he cuts the actual heart of palm from the plant and makes a terrific cerviche (which we eat after the tour as part of a delicious lunch. Now I know what the real heart of plam tastes like I know why I never liked the jarred and canned variety.) There was an instant connect when Paula was introduced to their daughter-age 6--Ana Paula! In these foreign places Paula is pronounced quite exotically. Paola. Don't be surprised if she requests this new pronunciation once she learns Spanish!

Like the cabins, the food here is simple but quite good, with all the ingredients grown locally or from the nearby sea. Think--papaya cut from their kitchen garden! I will leave it up to Paula to give more detail about the food since she seems to be enjoying the simplicity of it all…especially the local chicken soup which is a gourmet experience all in one bowl. (and this discovery was a happy accident as she got a cold upon arrival and just wanted a bowl of chicken soup when we stopped for lunch on the way to the farm!).

We are planning to have Liz guiding us on our adventures today and tomorrow but yesterday we were on our own. It was raining hard on and off for most of the day yesterday (it is a rainforest-- DUH!) but managed our way back to the main highway for lunch at a nice local place- Santa Maria Volcano Lodge. We had planned to go on from there to a park and a hike but lost our way --there are no road signs to speak of and Pablo’s map was not exactly precise. We found our way to these huge high-tech windmills on the top of a small mountain (CR is real big on clean energy and conservation) but decided that with dark clouds coming in and the wind howling (good for the windmills) it would be wise to head back.The returning trip was quite pleasant as the rain stopped and we got brief views of the sun. We took our time and Paula got lots of pics.
A new couple arrived at the farm from Seattle and we had a very pleasant evening eating family style together with Ana, Pablo and Elizabeth (their marketing "director of fun" from Bethesda who has quite the gift with the language). Small world--the Seattle folks are actually from Redmond--and they have enjoyed eating many times at Jonathan's former place-Pomegranate. Life here is very sympatico...so different from the world in which we live.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

What time should I set the Earthquake alarm for you? Day 1 in CR


It’s about 6AM and my bed starts shaking. My first thought was that one of Berni’s German shepherds has gotten into our casita and is having some fun. Nope... put that idea out of your mind. “Earthquake" comes next to mind. Yup-- it’s an aftershock-- not a real eathquake--so not to worry, friends and family. We are in Costa Rica with lots of active volcanoes and they had a big one last week 6.0 and this was merely one of the “aftershocks” that our innkeeper tells me last night have been going on for days. "But don’t expect another one" ,he says. I try to believe him. Oh well, this is the price we pay to visit paradise.

Breakfast was befitting CR..lots of fresh fruits (ah-so that's what a papaya should taste like!) and a sweet bread pudding . Paula saw an amazing tropical flower hanging from a very innocent looking vine. Like plastic-layered color.

Off we went after breakfast to rent our generic, small 4WD at Thrifty. Uneventful except for the fact that it seemed to take about three hours to finally get out of their door. We hit the Pan American Highway at around 11AM for a five hour ride to the rainforest and Finca la Anita. This is the best road in CR and if you average about 30-40mph you are speeding. But if you set your expectations low and give yourself lots of time to reach your destination you can really enjoy the ride..which we did. The last 10 miles or so was an adventure, an unpaved slippery, pot-holed jungle road (it had just poured), crossing bridges that were about as wide as my car and looked like they would fall into the stream any minute. But if was really fun to drive. Paula was calm and a good navigator (I started calling her Magellen after she found our hotel in Bologna by some miracle!) , and we arrived at this amazing , lush, gorgeous place safe and sound. We were greeted warmly by our hostess/owner Ana.

Off to Costa Rica “First Class” LOL Jan 15

First let me say that our trip to Costa Rica was effortless. If the purpose of air travel is to get you from place to place safely and on time, then US Airways gets an “A”. Off on time, landing only a few minutes late some 5 hours after we took off. By comparison, it Cortez more than a few weeks to get here from nearby Cuba in the fifteen hundreds. how far we have come. And we are not here to torture the native population but to enjoy their hospitality and put lots of colons ($$) in their pockets.

Getting back to “first class”. It does not exist on US Airways. I used 120,000 miles to get our two first class tix for the trip and what did we get for our five hour flight…wide, but very tight seating, no movie (Nada on US Air anymore as we are told as of November 2008), a meal that was a sandwich and a oily pasta salad, bad wine in a plastic cup. But the flight attendant was very nice.
In a small first class cabin for five hours you get to notice everything that is going around you and, if you have friendly people, even a chance to chat with someone other than your seatmate (the lovely Miss Paula famous nature photographer). We talked quite a bit with two couples from Eureka California who were embarking on a 14 day cruise through the Panama canal and Central America…sounded like a fabulous trip but they were likely to be among the youngest people on the voyage and they were in their late forties or early fifties

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

One Day to Go


Right now you are looking at Rancho Shel dones y Paola in sunny Scottsdale. Tomorrow we are off for Costa Rica and La Anita Rainforest Lodge.

Service!!

I am in shock! Just got a call from my car rental company in San Jose (Thrifty) asking me if I wanted to be picked up at my hotel in the morning instead of when I arrive the night before. What service..now I dont have to deal with a car rental at 10PM. Imagine Hertz or Avis doing this in NYC..LOL. So far everyone I have spoken to regarding my trip accommodations has gone out of their way for me...con mucho gusto!! (with great pleasure for you Gringos) Sure hope this continues after we land and begin our adventure.